It can be hard to find the right whitewater helmet. Buying the most expensive by no means guarantees it will be right for you. This article will give you a good foundation of knowledge to spend your money well and protect your head and money maker. 

 Padding: 

Simply put the more padding the helmet has the more protection you have. Some helmets on the market offer a shell and nothing more. I like to think of my head like an egg; if I were to send it down a rapid I’d pad the shit out of that egg. 

Don’t go cheap: 

A helmet is one of the most important pieces of personal protective equipment in moving water. An impact to the head in moving water comes with a very real possibility of serious injury or death. Even with a helmet on serious injury might not be avoidable; with this in mind give yourself the best possible chance and pay a little extra to be a lot safer. Higher-end helmets come with the high price tag often due to newer technology used, such as carbon fibre.  

Ear protection:

Whitewater creates a lot of noise, making hearing difficult at the best of times. Covering your earls will only make this harder, so much so that it can cause you to miss a vital communication (such as “there’s a log across the river!”) or whistle signals. I would only buy a helmet with removable ear protection. That being said, full-face helmets are a good option and will cover your ears. If this is an option you want to explore I would recommend adjusting your paddling and be aware that you aren’t able to hear as well. 

Fit: 

Make its snug. There should be no movement once the helmet is correctly fitted. Try some headbanging once it’s on, if it comes loose you stand little chance in a rapid. 

Full-face: 

Some helmet offers full-face protection. While this isn’t something I have ever opted for I would recommend this for anyone that has trouble tucking in when the roll or anyone looking to head down some major slides. Rivers are often remote and once your face is bust-up that’s game over and invariably a long hike out. 

The downside is that it will restrict audible communication and often covers your ears and mouth. It can also restrict access of your whistle. 

The bend test (Multi-directional impact protection):

When buying a whitewater helmet I use the “bend test” to show how much protection it’s going to give me. Simply place both hands on the sides and pushing. If it easily bends, this is bad news for your skull. The more rigid it is the more impact it’s going to take. 

Visor:

Pros 

• Provides protection from the sun. This is vital for anyone working on a river or at sea. Blocking the sun doesn’t just help protect your skin and eyes, but it also allows you to have a better field of vision. 
• Air pockets- Visors help create air pockets for submerged victims i.e. foot entrapment. I have been part of rescues where visors have given victims much needed extra time. 
• A barrier between your face and an object like a rock. 

Cons:

• Forehead damage – I have heard a theory before that when a big enough impact the visor on the helmet could break and go straight into your forehead. Personally, I have never seen or heard of this, but more to the point what would that impact have done to your face without that visor? 
• Acting as a scoop – When swimming in whitewater visors can act as scoops and when the water catches it can throw your head back causing a neck injury. The scoop can rip the helmet off your head; I have seen this many times. 

I believe it is important to get a helmet with an adjustable visor and drainage holes to help avoid this.

Chinstrap: 

These buggers have a habit of coming loose on the river. Make sure there’s a backup lock for the strap. When adjusted correctly it shouldn’t be able to slide above your chin. Test by clipping it then pull the strap up and over your chin towards your nose. If it comes over your chin it needs to be tighter. 

Summary: 

Don’t cut corners. Spend a little extra getting a good fit and strong helmet that’s fit for your purpose. If you’re kayaking or learning a new sport, expect to spend some time upsidedown. Make sure you buy a helmet that’s made for whitewater and has the appropriate EN stamp. CE EN 1385 CLASS I/IV – Helmets for canoeing and white-water sports.